Back from the Border

The last few days have been an incredible succession of Khmer temples and ruins of which we all have many, many pictures and delightful experiences. Unfortunately though with this silly iPad, i can't seem to load pictures onto this blog. Argh. I'll try to post some when I have access to a normal computer device.

Last night we drove to Sra Em near the Thai border. They are finally trying to pave a road into this remote area, but it would appear by their lack of proper equipment that this may take some time to accomplish. Still, the Cambodian government is working on it, as rumor has it they're trying to increase ease of access to the area so that the former Khmer Rouge dissidents can be brought further into the fold with access to "civilization." Of course, the official line is to increase tourism, but it would seem to also facilitate military access as well, should the situation ever turn sour again.

Earlier today we visited a temple on top of a mountain near to the Thai border, called Prasat Preah Vihear. We got to the top just as dawn approached, and it is a magnificent ruin. Unusual in comparison to other Khmer temples is that instead of being governed by the four cardinal points with a more east-west orientation, this one has a north-south set up. The views from on top were exquisite, and we could see an incredible way across Cambodia, even with the morning haze. You could see why the Khmer Rouge chose this location as their last hold-out. It's super remote, almost completely inaccessible, and just a steep ravine or two away from Thailand. And so, in addition to the ruins of old, there are bunkers from Khmer Rouge days, only a decade or so ago, and new emplacements from the current Cambodian army. Tensions are always running hot here still I guess, as both the Thais and Cambodians claim this area, and small arms activity erupts from time to time. In addition, the Khmer Rouge mined the area heavily, so, as with many of the more out of the way temples we have seen, straying off the beaten path is extremely dangerous. Apparently one Cambodian soldier was killed by a mine just last year and just right next to the Grand Staircase there.

But the site was not to be missed, and it definitely rewarded us by allowing us to be the only visitors we saw that day at the temple. We had a friendly and young, but with horrible facial scars, police officer accompany us, so that we didn't get in trouble, wandering off into mine fields or peering at secret gun emplacements, etc. He and I shared a couple of cigarettes, and he taught me a few Cambodian words while I taught him a few English words too.

On the way back, we climbed up to the River of a Thousand Lingas and checked out a beautiful waterfall replete with thousands of sweat-hungry butterflies (they coated us) and the occasional linga-yoni carved into the rocks in the stream bed.

Now we are back in Siem Reap, preparing for the mountainous forests and jungles and beaches of Kep and Kampot. It's a long journey on questionable roads from here, but we are excited about the forests of Bokor where there are many endangered species as well as some French-colonial-era spooky old buildings inside. We are also looking forward to exploring some of the little islands off the coast and hopefully seeing some dolphins too.